Fugu – The Taste of Death

yeyenman — Wed, 20 May 2009 03:03:22 +0000

The Sinister Blowfish

Swimming through the tank
He dreams of being caught and
Poisoning the chef

This is listed as one of those things I just had to do before I die. Well, hoping not exactly right before I die but a little way before allowing me to live and share my experience in the least – eat some deadly blowfish.

I first read about the fish and the art of risking one’s life in eating it in some National Geographic magazine we had when I was kid. Fugu it was called and was a delicacy found in Japan. Fugu was of such high praise that the Japanese pay millions of yen a year and actually endanger their very lives to eat it. They knew of the impending peril and even inspired haikus such as (translated):

“I cannot see her tonight
I have to give her up
So I will eat fugu”

- Yosa Buson (1716-1783)

and

“Last night he and I ate fugu,
Today I help carry his coffin”

- Anonymous

and such maxims as

“To throw away life, eat blowfish.”

but still ate fugu anyway. I became very intrigued with what was with fugu that was just to die for. I swore to taste some before I die. Again, hopefully not exactly right before I die.

Being an expat to Japan, I had a lot of opportunity asking friends around how fugu was like. Unfortunately, the fugu reviews of my friends were mostly underwhelming – the fish was bland and well, they didn’t die However, the thought of playing Russian roulette with fugu still has its pull on me, so when my friend, Justin invited me for some fugu dinner, I gave a definite yes

Fugu Dinner Buddies

Clockwise: Koike-san, Justin, Tha, Jem

We went to this fugu specialty restaurant in Chofu-shi called とらふぐ (to-ra-fu-gu: tiger blowfish). Apparently とらふぐ has a lot of branches and was quite popular which made our choice rather safe and lessened the odds of our premature deaths

とらふぐ　(To-ra-fu-gu) or Tiger Blowfish

Fugu was a bit pricey compared to an ordinary Japanese dinner-out meal but it wasn’t as pricey as I had expected. I was expecting to spend more than 10,000 yen (~$100) for my fugu dinner as most western websites I’ve read said it would cost an arm and a leg but it only cost me around 5,000 yen. However, I think 5000 yen is still freaking expensive given that it might already cost you your life

Justin spent the most among us since he was also the bravest to try some 白子 (shirako) or Fugu sperm sac. Well, he didn’t know what he ate until he got home and searched it in the internet though

7,380 Yen for a Fish?!

Most of us ordered the fugu 6-course meal which included 皮刺し (torafugu skin sashimi)、とらふぐ刺し身 (torafugu sashimi) 、とらふぐなべ (torafugu nabe)、なべ皮 (torafugu skin nabe) and 雑炊 (rice gruel).

Before actually going to the restaurant I did a couple of research and found that one fugu has enough Tetrodotoxin (pufferfish poison) to kill 30 people. Tetrodotoxin is 100 times deadlier than cyanide and is 160,000 times more potent than cocaine. Tetrodotoxin is also used in the voodoo art of zombification and causes nerve paralysis which can lead to a very painful death via aphyxiation. Some 14 people died from fugu between 2002 and 2006 and in 1975, fugu liver cost Japan’s then living national treasure, Kabuki actor Bando Mitsugoro VIII his life. Nevertheless, what the heck. I still want to eat fugu.

Alas, To Taste Death

I am rather adventurous when it comes to anything but this is the first time I’ve actually put my life in the line for food. I was anxious.

皮刺し (Torafugu Skin Sashimi)

The waiter first served 皮刺し (torafugu skin sashimi) which looked rather like colorless rinds of orange peel. It was time to dig in. Alas, to taste death! I have been waiting for this moment for about 18 years. I took my first bite and savored it. What followed came as a shock. Death tasted like… well it didn’t taste like anything. It has no taste at all. It was also firm and crunchy It reminded me so much of the gulaman in the Filipino refreshment sago’t gulaman

What was the big fuss? Did I just blow 5000 yen on something I could get the same satisfaction with sago’t gulaman? I savored eating more of the fugu skin. Torafugu Skin Sashimi is eaten with spring onions and ponzu sauce. It was growing on me. Hey, what do you know, it was delicious!

Up next was the semi-translucent とらふぐ刺し身 (torafugu sashimi) which was served elaborately arranged to form a chrysanthemum. Ironically, the chrysanthemum is also the Japanese flower of choice for funerals I’ve read somewhere that the chrysanthemum is also Japan’s national flower and fugu is also the only dish forbidden to be eaten by the emperor. Fugu is indeed ironic.

I’ve read that fugu sashimi is supposed to be as “subtle as the fragrance of spring rain dripping upon a stone”. I had absolutely no idea what that zen crap actually meant but it was again time to dig in.

とらふぐ刺し身 (Torafugu Sashimi)

Torafugu Sashimi is eaten with chives and spring onions and dipped into the same ponzu sauce (dark soy sauce + mirin + lemon juice) served with the Torafugu Skin Sashimi. I’d say I like the Torafugu Skin Sashimi better. After finishing the plate, I couldn’t still quite get the “subtle as the fragrance of spring rain dripping upon a stone” thing but it’s mild taste together with the sauce’s flavor was delicious nonetheless.

And what do you know, I am still alive

"Subtle as the fragrance of spring rain dripping upon a stone"

とらふぐなべ (torafugu nabe/torafugu hot pot) and なべ皮 (torafugu skin nabe/torafugu skin hot pot) was served next. The soup was to be cooked in a paper basket which I thought was really cool.

Cool Paper Cookware

The fugu meat was still moving when it was served which was a bit freaky but was also awesome thinking of how skilled the chef was at his art

It's still alive!

Fugu meat looks a lot like chicken and the fugu skin imprints are snake like. It doesn’t look anything like fish at all. It looked more like some alien creature from another galaxy. Since the meat was still moving when it was served, I kind of felt sorry for the fugu when we put them inside the boiling water

Fugu Meat

The fugu nabe was tasty. Fugu meat however was a bit tough. My lips were also starting to itch Was this supposed to be the addictive, tingling, novocaine-like effect that comes with eating fugu? I don’t think the itchy feeling was addictive, though and it sure didn’t feel like novocaine I sure was feeling pretty happy though

雑炊 (Rice Gruel)

After we’ve finished the last piece of our fugu nabe , rice, eggs, onion leeks and some more herbs were put into the our fugu nabe’s remaining broth. The outcome looked so much like doggers But don’t let the appearance fool you. The Rice Gruel was tasty and as hobbits would say would “fill in the corners” of your tummy.

It was a fun night spent with friends. No one broke into seizures which made the night rather normal but fugu is by no means underwhelming It was aslo Justin’s birthday the next day and he is still around to celebrate yet another year

I’ve survived fugu! I’m still around to tell about it. Maybe I’ll try some fugu liver someday for more action. Now that would be exciting

What to do in a Shuuden (October 18, 2008)

yeyenman — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 13:37:55 +0000

What to do when you’re drunk and on board the empty 終電 (shuuden or last train) going home from a late night karaoke – dance like crazy in the empty car!

Keiō Sagamihara Line – Minami-Osawa to Keiō Nagayama.

Takejiro is just plain crazy

You can get a glimpse of Jem towards the end of the video.

It was also Tha- the videographer’s birthday. Weee, happy 30th birthday, Tha!

We scared the wits out of the only other passenger inside the car.

Hahaha, I would never forget this night. We better have a better choreography next time and let’s do it at the Yamanote line

Infernal Blog of Doom » jem

Fugu – The Taste of Death

What to do in a Shuuden (October 18, 2008)